The Markets of Nice, a Prelude

The Markets of Nice, a Prelude

So I have been meaning forever to show you the famous Cours Saleya market in Nice. The problem is there is SO MUCH TO SHOW that I look at all the pictures I have and get exhausted just thinking about the post it would take to do justice to the Cours Saleya market, and give up and write about chocolate.

I can always find the energy for chocolate.

Almost always. Last night, I was so exhausted from this week, I almost couldn’t do any truffle experiments, but I finally worked up the courage.

So, for Mimi’s sake, oh market-loving Mimi, I am going to tell you, but–in lots of short parts. It will be like The Green Mile, only maybe not such a bestseller–you get a chapter of the market at a time.

And for a prelude, I think you need to see a little of what this city is.


Just a glimpse of this bright and fashionable city on the edge of the sea.

It is unique and distinct, not a Paris of the South as some people say, but it’s own place, very different from Paris, but with its own appeal.

I still remember my first introduction to Nice.

My father went there when I was a baby, in a story I’ve told before.

So Nice formed itself a little in my brain, an image of fountains and orange juice and a Matisse museum.

Then a friend in Tahiti told of living in Nice. “So snobby,” she said.

“Worse than Paris?” I asked incredulously.

“Different,” she said. “A Nice, il faut toujours faire attention � ce que tu portes. Si tu as une jupe mal tournée, ils te regardent de travers.” In Nice, you always have to watch what you wear. If you wear a skirt “mal tournée” (we don’t even have an equivalent for this in English, maybe “not quite well made” is the best way to translate it), everyone gives you looks.

So that was Nice for me, until I saw it.


And I have to say that, given the 180 euro FLIP-FLOPS I saw in some store windows, they might very well be snobby about clothes. ($240!! For FLIP-FLOPS!!!)

But isn’t it lovely?

These are the buildings you see around the Cours Saleya market.


Do you see the shutters with the little opening? This is a classic in the south of France.

A long arcade of arches separates the Cours Saleya from the Mediterranean.

Through the arches, you can see the blue sky, the blue sea, and the palm trees.


People walk and skate along the famous Promenade des Anglais.


My brother is scanning for topless sunbathers and about to go dip his hand in the Mediterranean for the first time. I love it when I widen other people’s worlds, too. But I’m not thinking about that in this picture, because it is one of those moments when I have forgotten what an adventure I am living, when I have forgotten that no one else in my family has ever seen the Mediterranean. I am instead thinking about the market that is just behind my back and also wondering where the good ice-cream is in this city.


Coming up next chapter…the market, chapter 1.

  • Wow! What photos!

    Oh, the colors of the Midi!

    Very clever idea, Laura.

    Hmm. I may just have to do a series on Rue Cler. Lord knows I have enough photos. I was planing to mete them out over the next 13 months or so until my next trip.


    Mimi the market lover

    August 24, 2007 at 7:06 pm
  • Ah…such beauty! What brilliant colors!

    I love the shutters. What a clever idea–shade and breeze all at once.

    I can’t wait to see the market photos! I just returned from our little farmer’s market. Today was the first day of “bee season”–bees buzzing around the peaches and apples, swarming the Amish bakers–another sign that fall is settling in up here in northeast Wisconsin.

    August 25, 2007 at 12:18 pm
  • I just wanted to say thank you! That picture is so beautiful and just encourages me even more to want to go to the Mediterranean. This is Laume’s daughter-in-law by the way.

    August 26, 2007 at 2:16 pm
  • What a lovely post, and such gorgeous photos…I can’t wait for the next installment in the “Nice” series of posts! 🙂 I hope you found your ice cream as well.

    August 26, 2007 at 3:46 pm
  • $240 for a pair of flip flops. I sure hope you took a picture of said flip flops. Those must be some very, very special flip flops! I really cannot even imagine how special they must have been. :-0

    I keep saying that one of these days I must get myself to the South of France. It just seems like such a beautiful, vibrant place. I adore those windows, especially when there’s a flower box in them.

    August 26, 2007 at 9:58 pm
  • Anne-Gaelle

    thank you for these bright sunny colors!!! It warms up my winter days…I can’t wait for the next chapter with hopefully a nice place to eat ice cream!!

    August 27, 2007 at 1:05 am
  • Fun Laura! Everything looks pretty…
    How many pairs of flip-flops did you come home with?

    August 27, 2007 at 8:07 am

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